Sunday, February 24, 2008

AEROSOL TEFLON


I called Hornady on Monday to order a replacement powder rotor. The conversation went something like this:
thorn: Hi Karen. A screw in the rotor was too tight, and by the time I removed it I'd stripped the hole. I need to order a new rotor and some screws.

Karen: Ok, let me start with your address.

thorn: Blah blah blah Cincinnati, Ohio.

Karen: I'll ship it today. Need anything else?

No charge, even for shipping. This is how a company creates a customer for life.

The parts arrived on Friday afternoon, and today I degreased the powder funnel system and installed everything into place. Observant readers will notice a few things are missing in the photo... for example, dies and a shellplate. I'll be ordering them sometime in the next week or so, and should actually be making ammunition within a couple of weeks.

Oh, as to the title...

If you should ever find yourself lubricating steel parts with aerosol teflon drylube - read the can. It probably says "shake well". Be sure you do this. And while spraying: if you start to see the spray take on the appearance of white foam, stop spraying and shake the can for a minute. The foam is NOT your friend.

Should you forget this quality advice, be aware that the parts will be coated in solidified white gunk. Brake cleaner will not remove this substance. Scrub with a towel and rubbing alcohol.

Dried teflon foam is a very bad thing.

5 comments:

Clay said...

What did you use for degreaser?

thorn said...

For prep work, i bought a can of Super Tech Non-Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner, and Gunk (go figure) Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant.

I really don't know how well the brake cleaner worked, because I ended up also running a patch soaked with alcohol through the powder tubes... so between the two, the grease left. I was worried the brake cleaner would strip paint (dunno if it will, paranoia) so on the painted metal i only used alcohol.

BTW - a film of surface rust developed VERY quickly once the metal was bare... easily under 2 mins was all it took for oxidation to start. So after you degrease, get the dry lube on fast (dont forget to shake).

IE, instead of degreasing everything and then lubing it all - do both steps for every part, then go onto the next part.

Anonymous said...

Hornady customer service is incredible. Also, their auto-attendant phone system is a hoot. Just getting to "Karen" is entertaining.

Unknown said...

Looks like a nice set up. Why did you go with Hornady over some other brands? I am thinking about the Dillon sqare deal would be a similar set up.

thorn said...

Hi Shawn,

I considered several options along the way which included Lee and Dillon. And in fact, if an ebay auction had gone my way I might have ended up with a Dillon Square Deal.

The main reason I choose the LNL-AP was that it has the functionality of the Dillon 650 at the price level of the 550. I want to use a powder check die, so that required 5 stations - the SDB and 550 only have 4.

At the moment I'm not spending money on a casefeeder, but if one day it happens the LNL-AP has this option; the SDB doesn't. In addition, the SDB won't use standard dies. SDB dies are more expensive so changing calibers costs more.

I don't have a rifle at the moment, but someday I will. The SDB can only reload straight-walled pistol rounds.

Hornady's die bushing are great, allowing more flexibility in die/station assignment than a fixed-station toolhead. Finally, the rotary powder measure appeals to me more than a powder bar system.

Dillon makes fine equipment for sure, and their service is reportedly second-to-none. If you are only ever going to reload one or two handgun calibers, consider the SDB... it's a nice price. But because I was looking to get a press that could fulfill future needs, the LNL-AP was the easy choice.